I'll try to update you from Zanzibar, before I return home August 8th.
I'm sure I will miss Tanzania, but I miss Arkansas more.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Tutaonana Baadae
This will be the last picture I'll be able to post until I reach Arkansas. Being on your own in a foreign country requires, at least in a narcasistic way, that you become proficient at self-portraits. Here's my last.
I'll try to update you from Zanzibar, before I return home August 8th.
I'm sure I will miss Tanzania, but I miss Arkansas more.
I'll try to update you from Zanzibar, before I return home August 8th.
I'm sure I will miss Tanzania, but I miss Arkansas more.
Wedding at the Roundabout
As we drove back home from the waterfall this afternoon, we ran into a wedding procession at the roundabout by Crisburger/Pub Alberto. They looked like they were having a great time!
Another Weekend, Another Waterfall
Traveled to Marangu with my housemate Christina and our favorite taxi driver today. I stood a few feet back from the falls and basked in the shadows, the way the sun filtered through the trees, through the water. A bird flew overhead and I thought about those cheezy, laminated ply-board knick-knacks with prayers or bad poetry printed in a fancy font, the kind you find at Goodwill. All these years I'd grown up with this image so that the very idea of a waterfall seemed cliche. No, they were right. But a picture can never do it justice. You must feel the sun beat down on you and be choked by the spray from the falls to see the real beauty in the place.
Kiswahili Sign Language Club
After Christina met Ephrasia on the street and they figured out that they both understood American Sign Language(Ephrasia is deaf, Christina is hearing), they became quick friends and started getting together every Monday to chat. The invited me to their last get together at Milan's. A lot of Kiswahili Sign Language is similar to American Sign Language, but there's also a lot of differences. As Ephrasia tried to explain the signs to Christina, she finger spelled in Kiswahili so I was totally lost! In the end, we communicated pretty well and it is actually a lot easier for me to interact with Ephrasia than most hearing Tanzanians!
Ephrasia visited Amani last week and the kids really enjoyed meeting her. People with disabilities are often shunned in Tanzania. Many people believe that being deaf means being stupid--that it means you are not capable of contributing to the community or even taking care of yourself. The kids were absolutely amazed that Ephrasia could read their lips and that she understood English. She made a real impact on the kids.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
The Hike to Uru
Footbridge on the way to the waterfall.
There are several small villages in the area. I ran into several young boys who were escorting an incredibly adorable bunny. I asked if I could take their picture and they were excited. I petted the bunny and thought about Heifer International before I asked a question that I already knew the answer to, "Are you going to eat the rabbit?" The boy holding the bunny nodded vigorously and smiled broadly. I had just petted their dinner. So cute, yet so nutritious.
Banana flower
Coffee bush!!!--and giant slug. To give you an idea of proportions, the coffee bean (green in color, just to the right of the slug) is about the size of a cranberry.
Uru Waterfall
The Uru waterfall is about a thrity minute drive outside Moshi. I traveled there last weekend with my favorite taxi driver/tour guide, Juma.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Wildebeest Migration
The wildebeest migration is an annual attraction in the Serengetti. The wildebeest and zebra migrate together. If you go on safari at this time of year, you will see thousands.
Friday, July 17, 2009
KSL (Kiswahili Sign Language)
Last Monday, I had the chance to meet a Tanzanian who is deaf, a really interesting experience because I studied American Sign Language while doing my undergrad at UALR and have several friends who are deaf. Sign language actually played a big part in my meeting Mr. Salazar, as did poker and Lt. Gov. Bill Halter, but that's a whole other thread.
My new roomate, Christina, who is also a special education teacher volunteering for Amani, met Ephrasia on the street. She stopped to say hello while walking along the Double Road--aptly named, the only road in Moshi with a partition between the lanes. She stopped to say "Jambo" and was greeted by Ephrasia with a barely audible "Si Jambo". When Christina asked her to speak up, she explained that she could not and that she was deaf. Before long, they were signing in what I call Swahinglish.
Christina learned ASL (American Sign Language) because it is commonly used with children who cannot otherwise communicate, like one of our children with autism at Amani. Christina had previously spent a length of time volunteering for Amani and was already fluent in Kiswahili when she arrived last month. Ephrasia had graduated from primary school and had attended some secondary school. She is fluent in both Kiswahili sign language and American Sign Language. But get this... she can also lip read in both Swahili and English.
A lot of signs in Kiswahili sign language are the same as in ASL. The sign for poor is similar as is the sign for school, work, and teach. A key difference in Swahili sign language is that numbers are signed with two hands, rather than one.
A local teacher in town, a bartender at The Watering Hole actually, is fluent in Autstrailian sign language. I mentioned to her that I was blogging about my meeting with Ephrasia and she mentioned running into a deaf woman and her mother outside a hotel. She signed hello to the deaf woman, who looked at her puzzled. Her mother explained that two different sign languages are taught in Tanzania—American Sign Language (ASL) and another sign language, we think maybe Swiss. The dual language system is a result of previous volunteers who came to teach in the area. The end result is that, unlike in America, you have a population of deaf citizens who cannot communicate with each other and a deaf community severely lacking in cohesion.
In the U.S., the deaf community has its own unique and established culture. The homecoming at the state deaf schools are big events that people actually come home to attend and deaf clubs where people congregate with their families. In Tanzania, it seems that deaf people are rather on their own.
My new roomate, Christina, who is also a special education teacher volunteering for Amani, met Ephrasia on the street. She stopped to say hello while walking along the Double Road--aptly named, the only road in Moshi with a partition between the lanes. She stopped to say "Jambo" and was greeted by Ephrasia with a barely audible "Si Jambo". When Christina asked her to speak up, she explained that she could not and that she was deaf. Before long, they were signing in what I call Swahinglish.
Christina learned ASL (American Sign Language) because it is commonly used with children who cannot otherwise communicate, like one of our children with autism at Amani. Christina had previously spent a length of time volunteering for Amani and was already fluent in Kiswahili when she arrived last month. Ephrasia had graduated from primary school and had attended some secondary school. She is fluent in both Kiswahili sign language and American Sign Language. But get this... she can also lip read in both Swahili and English.
A lot of signs in Kiswahili sign language are the same as in ASL. The sign for poor is similar as is the sign for school, work, and teach. A key difference in Swahili sign language is that numbers are signed with two hands, rather than one.
A local teacher in town, a bartender at The Watering Hole actually, is fluent in Autstrailian sign language. I mentioned to her that I was blogging about my meeting with Ephrasia and she mentioned running into a deaf woman and her mother outside a hotel. She signed hello to the deaf woman, who looked at her puzzled. Her mother explained that two different sign languages are taught in Tanzania—American Sign Language (ASL) and another sign language, we think maybe Swiss. The dual language system is a result of previous volunteers who came to teach in the area. The end result is that, unlike in America, you have a population of deaf citizens who cannot communicate with each other and a deaf community severely lacking in cohesion.
In the U.S., the deaf community has its own unique and established culture. The homecoming at the state deaf schools are big events that people actually come home to attend and deaf clubs where people congregate with their families. In Tanzania, it seems that deaf people are rather on their own.
Amani
This is not Amani Children's Home. This is a weird building along the road to my house. We're not certain what it is. Amani is the Kiswahili word for peace. Laura thinks it's a speakeasy because it sometimes smells like alcohol at night. All I know for sure is that they do not sell Vodacom phone credit, because I've looked everywhere.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Ngorogoro Crater
I'm so embarassed! I'm firing my stylist...
Woo pig sooie!!! Yes, Dean Rutherford, I did call the hogs. They call warthogs safari antenaes because their tails point straight up when they run. If they are in tall grass, it is all of them you can see.
Mission Accomplished
A week or so after I first arrived in Moshi, I heard about a Kenyan woman who offered hour-long pedicures for 5000 Tanzanian Shillings, about $4. Upon hearing this glorious, if somewhat surreal news, my roomate Laura and I immediately decided to have a pedicure party, less to enjoy polished toes, but more to bask in the glow of the elusive. We would have someone paint our toes while we watched girly movies and ate cookies.
This provided me with a wonderful challenge. I would somehow, within the bounds of Tanzania, locate a copy of Steel Magnolias--the first movie I ever watched on VHS home video (with my Mom, sister Holly, and Aunt Emma in the old house on Cole Lane). Having little else to occupy my free time, a little scavanger hunt was just the thing to stave off complete and engulfing homesickness. I knew that there was someway to locate a copy, even here.
I looked around with the usual suspects, the pirated DVD dealers. I'm against pirated DVDs on general principle, but was willing to overlook my opposition for the good of the cause... but to no avail. You can find 20 movies on one disc, but they apparently never include 1980s film starring Dolly Parton. I later turned to my favorite cab driver ("Hapana, pole sana, dada")and then to the local 'guy who can get anything'--including the power turned back on during an 'outage'. No. After traveling to Arusha and still coming up empty handed, I didn't think my dream would come true.
Ah, but dreams do come true when you happen to mention said dreams to wonderful friends like my own Mr. Salazar! It's kind of like cheating, but since I didn't ask for it, it still counts and I still get points. It arrived just in time for Laura's going away on Sunday.
Best. Care package. Ever.
Compliments of Mr. Salazar...
Among the treasures: Sugar-free Hazelnut Coffeemate, pepperoni, M&Ms, a copy of The Economist (from May), & Burt's Bees lip balm.
Among the treasures: Sugar-free Hazelnut Coffeemate, pepperoni, M&Ms, a copy of The Economist (from May), & Burt's Bees lip balm.
Maasai Boma
These pictures were taken around the Manyara area while I was on safari a few weeks ago. The Maasai (also Masai)are most well known for their plaid fabrics, bright colors, and pierced ears. It is said, and they will tell you, that they subsist wholly on cow products--milk, blood, and meat. I've heard that they draw the blood from a vein in the neck and clot the wound with mud, to preserve the life of the cow for future sustinence. A friend that has stayed in a similar Maasai village, however, has told me that they do indeed eat vegetables, which answered a lot of questions we had about, among other things, scurvey.
While they do live 'closer to nature' than most, they are more capitalist than they appear. They charge $10 (American) to enter the village. They do a quick performance, including the well-known jumping routine, before escorting you into the "market"--the inner fence which is covered by hand-made jewlery and artifacts. Make no mistake, they make good money and have their business plan down pat.
While they do live 'closer to nature' than most, they are more capitalist than they appear. They charge $10 (American) to enter the village. They do a quick performance, including the well-known jumping routine, before escorting you into the "market"--the inner fence which is covered by hand-made jewlery and artifacts. Make no mistake, they make good money and have their business plan down pat.
mortgages
There isn't really such a thing as a morgage in Tanzania. People start buildings and work on them as their finances allow. I think there is a distinct possibility that there are more incomplete houses in Tanzania than houses with roofs.
Someone told me that a presidential candidate went around to many of these such houses, marking them with a an "X", promising that if he got elected, each of these houses would be finished. I don't know who the candidate was, or even it's a true story, but the promise didn't come to fruition.
The above structure is on the corner, about 75 ft. from my house. We use it as a landmark when giving directions to our house, which has no address. We call it "the church without the roof", but we're really not sure what it was intended to be.There's a small courtyard in the back that looks to be intended as a sanctuary, where people let their goats graze.
Monday, July 6, 2009
Mommy Dearest
My dearest mother insists on forwarding my emails to her entire address list, including family I haven’t seen in about 15 years. Here’s what you’re missing…
Hi Momma!
Sorry it’s been so long since I have written. Things have been busy around here and I don’t get to use the internet very often.
First, an update on Amani…
I’m trying to finish up my project with Amani Children’s Home. I’m working on a project to foster relationships with churches, schools, & businesses which will hopefully lead to cultural enrichment as well as diversified fundraising resources. Individual contributions—our bread and butter—are way down over the same time last year. The last figure I heard was a 50% decrease.
Belts are tightening here--literally. There was a really short rainy season so many fields failed to produce much corn. These are subsistence farmers that eat what they grow and if it doesn’t grow… they don’t eat. The rest of the year will be rather slim for area communities. I’m betting that the number of children served by Amani is bound to increase, since families won’t be able to feed their children. Amani’s monetary resources are dwindling, just as the need for contributions increases.
We figured out the situation with the power outages. Tenesco, the local utility, makes scheduled cuts every Tuesday and Thursday. Because it is run on hydro-electric, and because they’ve had such a mild rainy season, they’re forced to make scheduled cuts for the sake of conservation. The cuts, however, are lasting longer than they did before. As it becomes even drier, I’m sure we will see an increase in the cuts.
There was a 4th of July party at The Watering Hole on Saturday and I ran into a couple of young women from Arkansas, so that was really nice. The owner is a Tanzanian of German descent, but his wife is from Texas. She had the kids all decked out in red, white, & blue. We gave away a free treats to anyone who wore an Obama kanga.
Kangas are pieces of cloth about a meter and a half long which are usually worn as skirts, but can be used for a multitude of purposes. You often see women carrying them as satchels or as baby carriers, strapped across their backs. Kangas are worn all around East Africa. Obama is very popular around this area since his father was Kenyan. There are also kangas that feature the face of President Bush that were produced when he visited the country last year, but I haven’t actually seen one.
One of the most interesting things about Tanzania is the mix of cultures. I am often asked where I am from. This was surprising at first, I figured people would simply assume I was American because I spoke English. Silly me! Many of the Westerners (mzungus) are German. There are also many Australians, British, and French ex-patriots and volunteers. They all speak English.
What I found really interesting is that I have met several “mzungu” that speak English with an accent (German or Indian) but that were born here. I thought my tour guide was born in India because he spoke English (perfectly, I might add) with a clear Indian accent, but he was born in Tanzania. The man that runs the Watering Hole speaks in English with a definite German accent, but was born here. His children, too, speak English with a German accent.
I had a conversation with a gentleman a few nights ago, a fellow mzungu, at least by appearance. He works in the coffee industry and is a trained coffee and tea taster. If you know me at all, you know I was immediately fascinated by this guy! I had heard him mention Pakistan and I asked him if he was from there. No, he said, he was a fourth generation East Africaner. His grandfather was a public servant and a speech writer for President Julius Nyerere—basically our Washington, the first President of the newly independent nation. His grandfather had died writing a speech for Nyerere and the President was so touched by this, his grandfather was the first civilian to be given a state funeral. He noted, with a hint of bitterness, that he had once been reported to immigration and detailed all the trouble associated with proving he was Tanzanian. Upon hearing his frustration, I thought of my American friends who have neither white skin nor black skin. One friend, who is an Air Force officer of Filipino descent, often gets asked where he is from. America, he responds. No, they clarify, where is your family from. Pennsylvania, he says.
I returned from safari last week and it took me a few days to get settled back in. It was truly a wonderful, once in a lifetime experience, but if I ever tell you that I’m going on a five-day long trip where I sleep in a tent with another person and share an unattended latrine with 50 other campers… please stop me. There were six of us, two volunteers and a few of their friends and family that shared the car. We visited three parks: Manyara, Serengeti, and Ngorogoro. I got a few pics, but will steal more from a safari mate who had a great camera with a telescopic lens. We saw “everything”. A safari is largely gauged by whether or not you see the big five: lions, buffalo, rhino, cheetah, and elephants. We saw it all plus hundreds of zebras and wildebeests which we caught in migration. Also on the trip, we visited a Maasai village and Olduvai Gorge, home to the oldest human fossils ever unearthed.
The weather here has been amazing. It’s around the mid-70s during the day and I don’t think it’s hit 85 since I’ve been here. I so greatly miss Arkansas, but am dreading returning to the August heat. I will require many, many blue snowcones—discolored teeth be damned. I will post a few more pics at the end of the week, but I can only upload them at The Watering Hole, which is only open on weekends. They’re the only place in town that has wi-fi and it’s too dangerous to use a USB in the internet cafes in town--they all have viruses.
'Til next time!!
jkh
Hi Momma!
Sorry it’s been so long since I have written. Things have been busy around here and I don’t get to use the internet very often.
First, an update on Amani…
I’m trying to finish up my project with Amani Children’s Home. I’m working on a project to foster relationships with churches, schools, & businesses which will hopefully lead to cultural enrichment as well as diversified fundraising resources. Individual contributions—our bread and butter—are way down over the same time last year. The last figure I heard was a 50% decrease.
Belts are tightening here--literally. There was a really short rainy season so many fields failed to produce much corn. These are subsistence farmers that eat what they grow and if it doesn’t grow… they don’t eat. The rest of the year will be rather slim for area communities. I’m betting that the number of children served by Amani is bound to increase, since families won’t be able to feed their children. Amani’s monetary resources are dwindling, just as the need for contributions increases.
We figured out the situation with the power outages. Tenesco, the local utility, makes scheduled cuts every Tuesday and Thursday. Because it is run on hydro-electric, and because they’ve had such a mild rainy season, they’re forced to make scheduled cuts for the sake of conservation. The cuts, however, are lasting longer than they did before. As it becomes even drier, I’m sure we will see an increase in the cuts.
There was a 4th of July party at The Watering Hole on Saturday and I ran into a couple of young women from Arkansas, so that was really nice. The owner is a Tanzanian of German descent, but his wife is from Texas. She had the kids all decked out in red, white, & blue. We gave away a free treats to anyone who wore an Obama kanga.
Kangas are pieces of cloth about a meter and a half long which are usually worn as skirts, but can be used for a multitude of purposes. You often see women carrying them as satchels or as baby carriers, strapped across their backs. Kangas are worn all around East Africa. Obama is very popular around this area since his father was Kenyan. There are also kangas that feature the face of President Bush that were produced when he visited the country last year, but I haven’t actually seen one.
One of the most interesting things about Tanzania is the mix of cultures. I am often asked where I am from. This was surprising at first, I figured people would simply assume I was American because I spoke English. Silly me! Many of the Westerners (mzungus) are German. There are also many Australians, British, and French ex-patriots and volunteers. They all speak English.
What I found really interesting is that I have met several “mzungu” that speak English with an accent (German or Indian) but that were born here. I thought my tour guide was born in India because he spoke English (perfectly, I might add) with a clear Indian accent, but he was born in Tanzania. The man that runs the Watering Hole speaks in English with a definite German accent, but was born here. His children, too, speak English with a German accent.
I had a conversation with a gentleman a few nights ago, a fellow mzungu, at least by appearance. He works in the coffee industry and is a trained coffee and tea taster. If you know me at all, you know I was immediately fascinated by this guy! I had heard him mention Pakistan and I asked him if he was from there. No, he said, he was a fourth generation East Africaner. His grandfather was a public servant and a speech writer for President Julius Nyerere—basically our Washington, the first President of the newly independent nation. His grandfather had died writing a speech for Nyerere and the President was so touched by this, his grandfather was the first civilian to be given a state funeral. He noted, with a hint of bitterness, that he had once been reported to immigration and detailed all the trouble associated with proving he was Tanzanian. Upon hearing his frustration, I thought of my American friends who have neither white skin nor black skin. One friend, who is an Air Force officer of Filipino descent, often gets asked where he is from. America, he responds. No, they clarify, where is your family from. Pennsylvania, he says.
I returned from safari last week and it took me a few days to get settled back in. It was truly a wonderful, once in a lifetime experience, but if I ever tell you that I’m going on a five-day long trip where I sleep in a tent with another person and share an unattended latrine with 50 other campers… please stop me. There were six of us, two volunteers and a few of their friends and family that shared the car. We visited three parks: Manyara, Serengeti, and Ngorogoro. I got a few pics, but will steal more from a safari mate who had a great camera with a telescopic lens. We saw “everything”. A safari is largely gauged by whether or not you see the big five: lions, buffalo, rhino, cheetah, and elephants. We saw it all plus hundreds of zebras and wildebeests which we caught in migration. Also on the trip, we visited a Maasai village and Olduvai Gorge, home to the oldest human fossils ever unearthed.
The weather here has been amazing. It’s around the mid-70s during the day and I don’t think it’s hit 85 since I’ve been here. I so greatly miss Arkansas, but am dreading returning to the August heat. I will require many, many blue snowcones—discolored teeth be damned. I will post a few more pics at the end of the week, but I can only upload them at The Watering Hole, which is only open on weekends. They’re the only place in town that has wi-fi and it’s too dangerous to use a USB in the internet cafes in town--they all have viruses.
'Til next time!!
jkh
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Celebrating Independence Day Abroad
At the Watering Hole this evening, celebrating the Forth. I've been feeling a little down, but perked up when a group of Americans from CCS, a local volunteerism cooridination organization, walked in. Turns out two of them were from Arkansas! Meet Lauren & Catherine Cupp...
Above, the ubiquitous Obama Kanga. This is probably more a symbol of Tanzania than America. They. Are. Everywhere.
Above, the ubiquitous Obama Kanga. This is probably more a symbol of Tanzania than America. They. Are. Everywhere.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
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